Build Plans - Advice will be needed -NOW INSTALLED

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14 May 2013 21:16 - 16 May 2014 10:11 #1 by Darkslice (Stephen Walsh)
ok, So putting pen to paper for the first time and taking a deep dive into the build.

im looking at removing as much as possible form the tank.
Plan is to be tropical and 1650mm x 500mm x 500mm



here is a quick drawing a did using a 1mm gap between the sheets for adhesive.

so next step is add some euro bracing.

ill do that now 80mm sould be fine.

but i want to place a Bean Animal Overflow. Ill try add that in but need to figure out how to fit it in.
Last edit: 16 May 2014 10:11 by Darkslice (Stephen Walsh).

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14 May 2013 22:27 - 14 May 2013 22:53 #2 by Darkslice (Stephen Walsh)
ok so the overflow is going to be 150mm depth x 1650mm lenght x 168mm height with a 25mm cut out of the base tank.

euro brace on the front is 80mm

I currently have this as 10mm glass but may change if the cost is to high.



So one question, i'm using 2 x 3/4 inch pvc tubing to insert the water back in, if the inner tubing is 3/4 inch, how big should the holes be in the glass?

Steve
Last edit: 14 May 2013 22:53 by Darkslice (Stephen Walsh).

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15 May 2013 08:06 #3 by Ski (Alan McGee)
Looking forward to following this build

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15 May 2013 09:22 - 15 May 2013 09:23 #4 by Darkslice (Stephen Walsh)
so does anyone know how big a hole should be cut for a 3/4 inch tubing or any tutorials on how to connect pvc tubing to a hole in a tank :S
Last edit: 15 May 2013 09:23 by Darkslice (Stephen Walsh).

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15 May 2013 10:03 #5 by LemonJelly (Johnny Cowley)
Look up UaruJoey on youtube. he specializes in diy stuff and I think he mentions that

"The only thing that burns in Hell is the part of you that won't let go of your life; your memories, your attachments. They burn them all away. But they're not punishing you.They're freeing your soul."

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15 May 2013 10:08 #6 by Darkslice (Stephen Walsh)

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15 May 2013 13:05 #7 by Darkslice (Stephen Walsh)
Ok looks like i need to order 2 few of these to do what i need for the return to sump,

(1 inch bulkhead)
www.amazon.co.uk/Lifegard-Aquatics-ARP27...eaded/dp/B0002DKAU0/

then 1 of these for the emergency overflow

(1.5 inch bulkhead)
www.amazon.co.uk/Lifegard-Aquatics-ARP17...ndard/dp/B0002HBL9A/

and 2 of these for the return to tank,

(3/4 inch bulkhead)
www.amazon.co.uk/Lifegard-Aquatics-ARP27...hread/dp/B001EUG9PU/

total cost : ~ €45
with 5 hole's required.

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15 May 2013 13:38 #8 by JohnH (John)
Here are a couple - well, three actually - links to relevant sections by Colin (puddlefish) in our 'Articles'.

They relate more to Marine tank building but there could be a few pointers there to help you out.

John

www.irishfishkeepers.com/index.php/artic...bystep-tank-building

www.irishfishkeepers.com/index.php/artic...ess-calculator-chart

www.irishfishkeepers.com/index.php/artic...ding-a-reef-aquarium

Location:
N. Tipp

We're just two lost souls swimming in a fish bowl - year after year.


ITFS member.



It's a long way to Tipperary.

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15 May 2013 22:04 - 15 May 2013 22:05 #9 by Darkslice (Stephen Walsh)
Thanks John,

I knew about the flow rates but seems you bring it up,

My tanks is approx 100gallons, so i need to be cycling about 500gph.
The gravity overflow using 1 inch pvc tubing is rated at 600gph

www.reefaquarium.com/2012/aquarium-plumbing-basics/

I plan on have 4 of these, 2 for the normal "Bean Animal" style drain and 2 for emergency overflow.
This give me a max 1200gph siphon, but take into account, bends kinks, etc, i'd say 1000gph is realistic.

I've also redesigned the over flow to be smaller and lighter, based on feedback from a friend the overflow may weight too much.



So here are the updated plans,


The redesign of the overflow (thinner and more adhesive contact.



The return socket is 3/4 inch so I've estimated adrill size of 25mm, this will change when i buy the bulkhead and measure it.



The 2 x 1 inch holes for the emergency siphon.



One of the 2 x 1 inch holes for the emergency siphon. (need to get the location for the second one yet)



and othe overview
Last edit: 15 May 2013 22:05 by Darkslice (Stephen Walsh).

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16 May 2013 09:46 #10 by bart (Bart Korfanty)
Hi
Just few things i can think of

I have made good few tanks of the similar size and common practice nowadays is to put your bottom in between the sides. At the moment it looks like u have sides standing on the bottom pane which adds extra stress from the glass weight

With that size of main tank i would allow 2mm for the silicone

Remember to allow at least 1mm for silicone between the brace and front glass. Especially if u not putting the brace across to connect front and back. With that length u will have quite a bend on the glass so this joint have to allow for some movement. Otherwise the brace will crack. have seen that in few cases and made that mistake myself. Also for the same reasons i would leave some space between side panes and the brace.

Bart

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16 May 2013 10:09 - 16 May 2013 11:37 #11 by Darkslice (Stephen Walsh)
Thanks bart ill make the bottom piece change,
but i wasn't expecting a bend on 10mm tempered glass with euro bracing. ?
Are you sure about that one?

On a side note I noticed that the bulkheads I listed above are threaded on the inside. Where can I get "abs bulkheas " and can anyone recommend a quite internal pump @ 1000gph?
Last edit: 16 May 2013 11:37 by Darkslice (Stephen Walsh).

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16 May 2013 12:47 #12 by bart (Bart Korfanty)
There will be no bend on the glass with brace. Well not noticeable one. There will be massive pressure though and some micro movement. That front pane will change the shape (even if u wont be able to see or measure it) and u need to allow for that with some gape between the front and the brace.

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16 May 2013 14:50 #13 by Darkslice (Stephen Walsh)
ok taking barts advice into play here,

here is revison 2,

There is now a 2mm adhisive gap between the glass in the main tank and the euro brace.
I've also changed the tank so that the side panels go to the floor, not the base panel.

[img]http://www.stephen-walsh.com/misc_hosting_files/fish/overview Revsion2.jpg[/img]


I've revised the hole size for the 2 x 3/4 inch return bulkheads
[img]http://www.stephen-walsh.com/misc_hosting_files/fish/retrurn revision2.jpg[/img]


I've revised the hole size for the 2 x 1 inch emergency hole bulkheads
[img]http://www.stephen-walsh.com/misc_hosting_files/fish/emg siphon revision2.jpg[/img]


things left to do...
-> change overflow to 6mm glass
-> place in hole for second siphon
-> create sump with filter media, UVc light, Heater, airpump, auto feeder etc...


things left to find...
-> silent under water internal pump @ 1000gph
-> Place to buy non-threaded ABS Bulkheads in 1 inch and 3/4 inch

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16 May 2013 16:22 #14 by Darkslice (Stephen Walsh)
ok pipes in place and glass in over flow changed to 6mm





things left to do...
-> create sump with filter media, UVc light, Heater, airpump, auto feeder etc...


things left to find...
-> silent under water internal pump @ 1000gph
-> Place to buy non-threaded ABS Bulkheads in 1 inch and 3/4 inch

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17 May 2013 19:28 - 17 May 2013 19:29 #15 by Darkslice (Stephen Walsh)
ok, added a splash of color to the tank and my height to get a feel for it,




found a nice pump, lifegard quiet one 5000+ @ 1400gph , anyone know where i can buy one?
Also still looking for a place to buy non-threaded bulkheads.

Working on the sump now.
Last edit: 17 May 2013 19:29 by Darkslice (Stephen Walsh).

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18 May 2013 10:26 - 18 May 2013 15:08 #16 by Darkslice (Stephen Walsh)
sump completed,

water will flow throw a Activated Carbon, then 3 layers of filers,and finally flow into the UVC champer.
There will be 2 x heater and 1 air pump in the sump also (not shown in blueprint)

[img]http://www.stephen-walsh.com/misc_hosting_files/fish/sump v1.jpg[/img]

There is also an over-flow in there that i plan on using to overflow into a drain.
(this will be a dip feed water cycle)

so over all this looks like the final change to revision 2.






Any comment/ sugestion.
Any does anyone know where i can buy parts (think i've asked this a few times :( )

-> quiet one pump 5000+
-> slip bulkheads (1", 1/2", 3/4")
-> I have a local glass cutter here but not cheap - recommendation are welcome.
Last edit: 18 May 2013 15:08 by Darkslice (Stephen Walsh).

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19 May 2013 09:05 #17 by CrustyCrab (Peter Biddulph)
For the glass try Keith in Glassworks in Tuam, he will deliver to Galway at no extra cost too. PM me for his number.
Seahorse in Dublin should sort you out with the slip bulkheads.
I have a feeling that Quiet One pumps will be hard to find in Europe, other options are Eheim and Ocean Runner
Great Project. Looking forward to updates.

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19 May 2013 09:30 #18 by Darkslice (Stephen Walsh)
Thanks crustyCrab,

I emailed seahorse last week, no luck there for the bulkhead . :(
Looks like I'll have to get them from Amazon .Co.uk and buy a thread to slip adapter.

I'll pm you now for Keith number, is it his business or something he does on the side?

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20 May 2013 19:17 - 20 May 2013 19:17 #19 by Darkslice (Stephen Walsh)
Ordered my 7 bulkheads,

4 x 1"
2 x 3/4"
1 x 1/2"
4 x 3/4" duckbill return nozzel

With these i can get an exact mesurment of the holes required in the glass.
Should take about 2 weeks for delivery - had to order from the states. Came to about 40 euro for the 11 items.


Steve
Last edit: 20 May 2013 19:17 by Darkslice (Stephen Walsh).

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20 May 2013 19:55 #20 by Gonefishy (Brian oneill)

Darkslice wrote: Ordered my 7 bulkheads,

4 x 1"
2 x 3/4"
1 x 1/2"
4 x 3/4" duckbill return nozzel

With these i can get an exact mesurment of the holes required in the glass.
Should take about 2 weeks for delivery - had to order from the states. Came to about 40 euro for the 11 items.


Steve

Unbelievable Steve. Some of you guys are so knowledgeable it's scary...I've spent the last fortnight putting together a bought tank and transfer from an existing tank...couldn't even imagine where to start the project you've so amazingly described....can't wait to see it as you actually piece it together. Make sure to take and post lots of photos....best of luck with it. Brian.

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20 May 2013 22:10 - 20 May 2013 22:11 #21 by Darkslice (Stephen Walsh)
Thanks for your kind words Brian,
im fairly new to fish tanks myself (only been at it about 4 months )

Not that tricky once you have a few friends who have fish tanks and are open to giving advice.
Not to mention a fourm full of knowledgeable people.

The hard thing is to ask the right questions ;)

My next update might not be for a while, while I wait on my bulkheads to arrive,
but I'm more than happy to answer any questions you may have.

Steve
Last edit: 20 May 2013 22:11 by Darkslice (Stephen Walsh).

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23 May 2013 22:05 #22 by Darkslice (Stephen Walsh)
while im waiting on my parts to arrive i said id start looking into cabinets.
Always worried that if i buy something from ikea then it will fail under the weight of the tank.
So i saw this and im goingto try make my own :)

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24 May 2013 17:46 #23 by Darkslice (Stephen Walsh)
How much weight can a pine made cabinet support? lol very vague question i know.

Will it support up to 200 stone?
Or when making a cabinet should i be putting in a steal frame?

Any one here build a cabinet for a 412+ liter tank.


Steve

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24 May 2013 17:52 #24 by bart (Bart Korfanty)
Hi
I'm still concerned about the design of the whole tank.
I pointed out previously front pane bracing issues. Exactly the same physics apply to the rear pane. The rear will change shape when the tank is full and all the stress will be transferred to the overflow box. Especially to it's bottom pane, which by the way is weakened by drilled holes. 6mm glass will not be able to successfully counteract to the force applied.

Solutions

1 - Use at least 10mm thick glass for the bottom of the overflow box. this way u will add sort of external bracing to the rear pane. allow some space for silicone as well 1-2mm.

2 - Keep the overflow box as it is but add internal brace the way that it's top edge is at the edge of the intake recess. U can lower the front one to match up and join them in the middle across with extra bracing.
U are going to loose few cm of viewing area in front but this way your tank will be fully braced and safe. U could always make it few cm higher to compensate that loss.

3 - Do the full bracing on the tank, keep the overflow box in 6mm glass but instead of overflow recess drill small holes along the top of the back pane under the brace. Of course not to many and not to close together to retain as much of the glass integrity as possible. U would need to recalculate the water flow though.

Of course these are just my suggestions (although backed by experience of constructing quite a few of similar size bad boys) and u don't have to be obliged to follow them in any way.

Great blueprints by the way

Her's link to quiet pumps of good make (it's in polish though). These pumps are energy efficient and very quiet. Search the net for some other vendor. They made in Italy i think so im sure u can get them or ebay or amazon

allegro.pl/aquarium-systems-new-jet-3000...owa-i3251457928.html

Good luck

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24 May 2013 18:38 #25 by k.galvin (Kieran Galvin)
Hi, My cabinet for my 6x2x2 (590 litres) is built around a framework of 4x2's no steel needed and was built by the original owner of the tank, I've no idea how long he had it but it has been in my living room for 7 years and not a problem with it. there is a page on garf.org that gives you a cutting list when you enter the tank dimensions.

www.garf.org/calculators/BuildLargeStand_3.asp

Nice plans by the way :)

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24 May 2013 21:29 - 24 May 2013 22:05 #26 by Darkslice (Stephen Walsh)
thanks bart, advise is always welcome.

I've made some changes i hope this looks better to your expert eye now.




changes:
-> Added a second brace at the rear of the tank (80mmm width and 10mm tickness)
-> Added a brace to the overflow (6mm in tickness)
-> Removed the 2 small braces on the edge of the overflow
-> Shortened the overflow entry to 400mm, (the open area from rear brace to bottom is 20mm)

The surface area of the overflow gap is 80cm2
The surface area of twice the 2 1" holes is 76cm2, so this overflow entry is twice the area of the exit pipes into the sump.
Last edit: 24 May 2013 22:05 by Darkslice (Stephen Walsh).

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24 May 2013 21:38 - 24 May 2013 21:44 #27 by Darkslice (Stephen Walsh)
had a look the new-jet 3000 pump, bit to loud for my liking but thank you for mentioning it to me.




excellent link k.galvin, thank you very mush
Last edit: 24 May 2013 21:44 by Darkslice (Stephen Walsh).

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26 May 2013 09:31 #28 by paulv (paul vickers)
hi, super looking plans and sooooooooo well drawn, did u look at seahorse site under dry goods and plumbing, they do all the pipe work for a diy build.i got all my parts there for reblumbing a 1000l tank. if it was my tank id put in 2 cross braces as your tank will over half a meter high. just a thought.

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26 May 2013 10:41 - 26 May 2013 10:43 #29 by Darkslice (Stephen Walsh)
Hi Paul,

I was talking to seahourse but they didnt have the bulk heads i was looking for :) i might go there for the pumping when im next in dublin but thats last on my list :)

I'm trying to avoid adding cross bracing - want to keep it as open as possible. but if i need to add it then i'll just have to add it :)

Just want to take a moment to thank pete from aqua paws for his insight and help yestereday (when i met him in his shop.) I'll be in touch for some parts :)

actually now that i think about i might be a van in a few weeks to pick a 6ft cabinet up from silgo to galway, anyone interested ;)
Last edit: 26 May 2013 10:43 by Darkslice (Stephen Walsh).

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04 Jun 2013 19:56 - 04 Jun 2013 20:36 #30 by Darkslice (Stephen Walsh)
Just an update,

My bulkheads arrived

4 x 1"
2 x 3/4"
1 x 1/2"

and some directional valves



I've also started reviewing the building process for building my own stand and shelfs,

I'll be using 20 2x4's for the base structure.
[img]http://www.stephen-walsh.com/misc_hosting_files/fish/stand V1.jpg[/img]

and i'm planning on getting everything i need out of 2 sheets of pine (2500mm x 1250mm)

[img]http://www.stephen-walsh.com/misc_hosting_files/fish/pine sheets.jpg[/img]


Seems im working with Imperial Piping mesurement, im ordering the rest of the pipe work from here


www.hendersons.co.uk

I'm just in talks with them at the mo about what i need to work with 1" hose piping
Great guys to work with, and my latest wiring diagram for the return pip work is as follows,


Last edit: 04 Jun 2013 20:36 by Darkslice (Stephen Walsh).

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