Iwagumi (scrapped). 30L nano (start)

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20 Nov 2013 05:35 #31 by Lauris (Lauris)

platty252 wrote: Just one more thing Lauris, don't panic. It will be fine.

Darren.


Thank you!

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20 Nov 2013 15:58 #32 by Lauris (Lauris)
KH - 13 . Tap water. Any thoughts?

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21 Nov 2013 15:41 #33 by platty252 (Darren Dalton)
KH-13 is fine. The soil will probably bring this down to zero.

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21 Nov 2013 15:48 - 21 Nov 2013 17:17 #34 by Lauris (Lauris)
Ok. I decided to take a risk.
Between two suggestions (4weeks
and 2weeks) I made up my mind to
flood it yesterday. This is me -
culd not last any longer (out of
patience). It took around 6 hours
to set everything up and to flood
it. At least all equipment purchased
works with no faults as hooked up.
Was a bit of a leak from co2 external
ceramic reactor but forced it as much
as possible to lock it and no leak
seen after. Filter is brilliant. Excelent
current delivered to every corner of the
tank. External heater seems to do job well.

Flooded with tap water kh13. Today I will
do a 100% water change with 50/50 tap/ro.

Will do Sunday another 50%. If I will keep
50/50 rate ro/tap I think my kh should be
good enough (?)

Co2 turned to 3-4 bubbles/sek.
Photo period 8 hours. (2x28w 6hrs, 1x34w 3hrs
where 1 hour in this period is with total w is 90w)
Co2 kicks in 3hrs before lights an
Stops 1.5hrs before lights off (does it sounds right?)

Any advice when I can srart to dose with micro and macro? And even with co2 - d I o keep to dose easycarbo?

Will do some better picks once it will settle down

P.s. not a single floater






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Last edit: 21 Nov 2013 17:17 by Lauris (Lauris).

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21 Nov 2013 17:00 - 23 Nov 2013 12:08 #35 by Lauris (Lauris)
KH down from 13 to 3. I dunno about other soils
but 20L of ADA was a good investment.
So if the soil brings it down is there any other reason I may stick with RO?

Ph 7.

As per bubble counter I have about 3bubbles per sek.

So if I'm looking at the chart I should increase
the bubbles up to 5 to aim around 25-30 ppm?

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Last edit: 23 Nov 2013 12:08 by Lauris (Lauris).

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21 Nov 2013 19:09 #36 by MickM (Mick)
Really nice set up Lauris :cool: love it.

“Alive without breath,
As cold as death;
Never thirsty, ever drinking,
All in mail never clinking.”

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21 Nov 2013 22:08 #37 by pit (Piotr Urbanski)
Finally, a serious project. Something different and a lot of wise tips. Good luck.

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21 Nov 2013 23:34 #38 by Lauris (Lauris)
ok. so water changed 30min ago. all 100%







Any advice on photo period would be much appretiated..
Will use EI salts as per book (dosage)
Will try to keep Co2 around 25-30ppm (3hrs before lights
turned ON and 1.5 hs before the end of the photo period co2 OFF)
for now I decided to leave the lights ON for 8.5hrs
1st hour 2x28w, then 2x28+ 1x34w, and last 1.5hrs of period 1x34w..


does it sounds OK?
Thanks!

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22 Nov 2013 01:15 #39 by platty252 (Darren Dalton)
Well done Lauris. It looks good flooded.

So many questions, I don't know where to start. :laugh: I can feel your excitement.

I don't think you need to use RO. Keep an eye on the plants. They will tell you.
I have only ever had 2 planted tanks that I maintain were I had to use RO. The tap water didn't suit the plants and they started to curl and melt.
As you have seen the soil has a direct influence on the water. I agree the ADA soils are a good investment.

As for the lighting I would just have the 2x28w on 6 hours a day.
I would keep it like this for the first week or two. Then you can slowly increase the amount of hours of light.
You can also start to introduce the extra 1x34w for an hour or two in the middle of the photo period.
I feel you may not need it. IME These plants don't need as much light as you may think. You are also using bulbs with a high Kelvin. Just something to think about.

Co2. Ok when you start a tank using the DSM the plants are exposed to high levels of Co2.
When you flood the tank and introduce Co2 even at 25-30ppm it is a lot lower than they were used to when they were dry.
I recommend running the Co2 higher than normal to allow the plants to adapt.
Use your drop checker and keep it well in to the yellow. About a week should do before bringing it back down to 30ppm.
Sorry if I was misleading in an earlier post talking about Co2, but I was thinking of a flooded tank when I wrote.
Introducing Co2 3 hours before lights on ensures the water has enough Co2 before the lights come on.
Tom Barr did a report on this about 4-5 years back.
You can get away with less but you are sure to be on the safe side with 3 hours.
I normally turn off Co2 1 hour before light off or off with the lights.

Just looking at your spray bar. I would just have the last section faced at the surface (for gas exchange at night) and the first two sections aimed at the front glass. You will loose a lot less Co2 this way.

I always feed the plants from day 1. Regardless if its EI or other methods of feeding the plants.

I hope you don't mind me saying I think the tree has put the tank off balance. It also makes the tank look smaller. But that's just me.

Now that its filled it is time to enjoy it. I cant wait to see it in 4-6 weeks when its past its first trim and grown inn.

Well done, you must feel very proud. I would with such a tank.

Darren.

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22 Nov 2013 13:07 #40 by Lauris (Lauris)
ok, so as per your instructions +/-
lights set up for 6.5hrs on
34w bulb hits in at the middle of the day for one hour

bubble rate increased to pick up the Co2 levels

This morning starting with Micro mix

will dose daily 20ml of Micro and 20ml of macro every other day
+ liquid carbon 6ml daily

- no more RO water as ADA takes a good care of KH

partly you are right about the balance, but I still like the idea of the tree.
In case I will decide - I can always start a new projest in my other tank with
the tree only. I would like to see how it will look with the moss all over it.
in this case I'm loosing a bit of perspective because I could not fit the tree
in other ways (tried few different ways). so it plays a role in scape with loosing
a bit of depth of field.

I'm not 100% happy as I never was with my old project, but the % missing makes me
to move on. I'm proud of getting the proect planned properly and getting it successfully
up to this stage..

I should add you on this project as a personal advisor as without
your help this would be impossible Darren!

I am planted!

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22 Nov 2013 16:42 #41 by Lauris (Lauris)
ok. Another KH test carried out after
20hours of 100% water change from TAP

KH 3 (from KH13)
Ph 6.5 (1hour before lights ON, 2 hours after
co2 running about 5-6bubbles per second)

Drop checker yellow as hell

* Spray bars adjusted as advised.Last section faced more to
surface for surface movement, 1st 2 sections faced more
towards the front glass direction

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22 Nov 2013 22:33 #42 by Lauris (Lauris)
Tests carried out 30min after Co2 off:
KH - 3.5
PH - 6.3

As if I'm looking by the chart
I have around 50ppm on Co2 levels


does it sounds OK?
Or should I turn less
bubbles per minute
to aim for lover levels?

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23 Nov 2013 00:27 #43 by platty252 (Darren Dalton)

Lauris wrote: I'm proud of getting the proect planned properly and getting it successfully
up to this stage..

I should add you on this project as a personal advisor as without
your help this would be impossible Darren!


You should be very proud Lauris. You have done a great job planning, you have obviously done your research and no doubt will execute this perfectly.
From the time we met to discuss setting up a proper planted tank I knew your hart was in it. Once your hart is in it its hard to fail.
I just true my 2 cents in.

I think 50ppm of Co2 is a bit high. Try 35-40ppm. After a week drop back down to 30ppm.
I would reduce the liquid carbon to 2.5ml. Moss doesn't like high levels of it.
Speaking of moss its peacock moss. I couldn't remember the name in an earlier post. Keep it trimmed.
In fact I would trim/shape it now.

Lauris you have inspired me to start a new aquascape of my own. I should get started after the weekend. Thank you.

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23 Nov 2013 18:15 - 23 Nov 2013 18:45 #44 by Lauris (Lauris)
Thank you and I would love to see with what you will come up with!

In the mean time I will go ahead with questions.

First issue appearing in my tank:





What is it? Fungus? White algae or something?
I have no tests for amonia or nitrite.
Filter is not matured. New filter with new media.
Might this one be related that I have no bacteria
in filter to fight with this stuff?

Other information I have (if useful?)
*Capacity 125 with actual 100L of water in
*Fully flooded 3 days
*Kh 4, ph 6.5
*Dosing EI as per book
*Easy carbo 2.5 mls a day
*Co2 ppm 35-40
*Lights 6hrs a day 2x28w with 1x34w turning ON during the 6hrs period for 1 hour
*ADA Amazonia soil
*Filtration 1400 l/h
*No airstone
*Spraybar with 3 sections. 2 sections aimed
To front glass and 1 towards the surface.
*The same tap water I use for my temporary tank where Ihave no issuse like
* T 26C


Any reasons for this appearing in my tank?
Possible causes? Best methods to fight with it?

I have a second filter fully matured (1 year) and with lots of bacteria in. Should I set it up as additional filter to help reduce issues which might appear due the reason that new filter has no bacteria? Or this is not the case?



Advice needed please!

I am planted!
Last edit: 23 Nov 2013 18:45 by Lauris (Lauris).

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23 Nov 2013 20:20 - 23 Nov 2013 20:30 #45 by proca (Peter)
hi lauris.
i had same sh... in the early stage of my tank, i noticed it first on a peace of wood and them it spread all over the tank (it's because of the wood i think), it's common problem in newly setup tanks, i bought 4 sucking loaches and they did great job, removed all with in a week, but i don't recomend sucking loaches with your setup, they would destroy it in no time, i've heard this white sh... will go away eventually after 2-4 weeks it self like but i dont know if you will wait so long

ohh ohh, just found something, it's some protozoa, typical for new tanks with new filters, someone was using shrimps and they did great job, somebody else is using TetraPond AlgoRem, they also recomend to use ceramic from cycled filter, mix new with old 50/50 (well that's the best way to start new tank from day 1 if you have cycled filter i think).
Last edit: 23 Nov 2013 20:30 by proca (Peter).

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23 Nov 2013 22:47 #46 by Aroshni (Lydia Olivera)
Wow Lauris, your tank is really stunning I love it!

What fishes are you putting into?

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23 Nov 2013 22:48 - 23 Nov 2013 22:55 #47 by Lauris (Lauris)
Thank you, proca!

This stuff appeared from tree yesterday and today
it is covering few of the plants. Main concern is
to not let it harm plants. Tomorrow I will try to
remove it manualy as much as possible.
Also I have media in my eheim 2213 about half of
it full with ceramic tubes. So I will exchange
the media between filters 50/50. I hope this will
help than.
I would like to move in my 3 Amano shrimps but
unfortunately the levels of CO2 not suitable for
any live stock.Also I preffer no chemicals or
medicine to be in use as it may help to fight the
present issue, but not ghe cause of it (as far as
I believe)..

Thanks for advice! Much appreciated!

I am planted!
Last edit: 23 Nov 2013 22:55 by Lauris (Lauris).

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23 Nov 2013 22:54 - 23 Nov 2013 22:55 #48 by Lauris (Lauris)

Aroshni wrote: Wow Lauris, your tank is really stunning I love it!

What fishes are you putting into?


Thanks!

I think I might thy rummy nose tetras as I have about 20-25 of them in my temporary tank. I think
I will add another 20-25.

3 amano shriimps will go in 4 sure. I might add
another 2 - 3 and then I will see. Sure more shrimps will go in, just dunno yet what type.
Maybe a very few snails too..

I am planted!
Last edit: 23 Nov 2013 22:55 by Lauris (Lauris).

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23 Nov 2013 22:57 #49 by LemonJelly (Johnny Cowley)

Lauris wrote:

Aroshni wrote: Wow Lauris, your tank is really stunning I love it!

What fishes are you putting into?


Thanks!

I think I might thy rummy nose tetras as I have about 20-25 of them in my temporary tank. I think
I will add another 20-25.

3 amano shriimps will go in 4 sure. I might add
another 2 - 3 and then I will see. Sure more shrimps will go in, just dunno yet what type.
Maybe a very few snails too..


any idea what kind of snails? they can be a blessing or a curse!

"The only thing that burns in Hell is the part of you that won't let go of your life; your memories, your attachments. They burn them all away. But they're not punishing you.They're freeing your soul."

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23 Nov 2013 23:02 - 23 Nov 2013 23:05 #50 by Lauris (Lauris)
Not a clue to be honest!

As with everything else in this project (except flooding the tank, lol) I will
take my time with live stocking. I will research
and prepare to not get the ones with trouble of popolation control.

I am planted!
Last edit: 23 Nov 2013 23:05 by Lauris (Lauris).

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23 Nov 2013 23:13 #51 by LemonJelly (Johnny Cowley)

Lauris wrote: Not a clue to be honest!

As with everything else in this project (except flooding the tank, lol) I will
take my time with live stocking. I will research
and prepare to not get the ones with trouble of popolation control.


nerites don't breed, and assassins only bread fairly slowly, as do tylos (but they're huge!)

"The only thing that burns in Hell is the part of you that won't let go of your life; your memories, your attachments. They burn them all away. But they're not punishing you.They're freeing your soul."

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23 Nov 2013 23:23 - 23 Nov 2013 23:26 #52 by Lauris (Lauris)
Don't like big ones. Would like to see some small size ones in my tank. Nerites or assasins might be considered as an option then. Do the snails need something extra to be added to the water, like calcium? Do they need extra fancy feeding or they live away with what they get in planted setups?

I am planted!
Last edit: 23 Nov 2013 23:26 by Lauris (Lauris).

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23 Nov 2013 23:40 #53 by LemonJelly (Johnny Cowley)
they tend to need the water a bit harder, and not too acidic otherwise their shells can dissolve. I always tuck a little piece of cuttlebone away in a corner if the water is too soft for them. i'm going to set up a small snail only tank soon

"The only thing that burns in Hell is the part of you that won't let go of your life; your memories, your attachments. They burn them all away. But they're not punishing you.They're freeing your soul."

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24 Nov 2013 10:20 #54 by Lauris (Lauris)
Ok. Filter media exchanged for about 60%. As 25L
tank don't need this much and new one needs it to
speed-up bacteria growth. Will see if this will
fix itself in week or so. I hope it won't go worse.

I might trim the moss today later on to give it a shape
From start, as suggested.

Everything else seems to be more or less ok! Cuba is sitill covered in some places with dust from ADA
soil after filling it with water but I think it should
go away with time once filtered properly

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25 Nov 2013 00:10 - 25 Nov 2013 23:41 #55 by platty252 (Darren Dalton)
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25 Nov 2013 00:12 - 25 Nov 2013 23:39 #56 by platty252 (Darren Dalton)
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25 Nov 2013 00:14 - 25 Nov 2013 23:42 #57 by platty252 (Darren Dalton)
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25 Nov 2013 00:16 - 25 Nov 2013 23:43 #58 by platty252 (Darren Dalton)
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25 Nov 2013 00:18 #59 by platty252 (Darren Dalton)
I could be wrong but I think you have two different issues here.

On the tree/wood it looks like a fungus. you can get if the wood was not completely dry to start with.
It is impossible to tell when buying wood if it is completely dry.
If it is a fungus it will go away soon and is completely harmless.
Another possibility is a bacteria that looks like spider cobwebs and can slowly move. Again harmless.

I think with the plants it is a separate issue.
They are possibly melting after the transition from immersed to submersed. Not common with HC Cuba.
They could be melting from high nutrient levels in the form of Ammonia/Ammonium.
This is why I suggested emptying after the first flood and refilling. I wonder if it got rid of enough excess nutrients?

When new Amazonia first came out I did a large tank with 20 pots of HC. added 2 large mature externals and lost it all within a couple of days. It looked like yours dose now.
The Ammonia level was off the scale. After a 80% water change it was still off the scale.

When I dry start a tank I do so for 4 weeks and don't have issues with ammonia. Even if I add a new filter.

I would try get the Ammonia tested.
I would also do a large water change every couple of days. Just in case.

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25 Nov 2013 05:34 - 25 Nov 2013 08:18 #60 by Lauris (Lauris)
Amonia 1ppm
Nitrites high as well
Along with nitrates around 20-30ppm

Yesterday did 40% water change with RO

The white stuff looks more like hairy
On plants it appears more in the area where
Where I have low current flow, just between
that bigh cave stone and glass

100% water change was carried after 20hours since water
was flooded in. I can keep doing water changes every
day if needed. I'll do some better pics this eve

I am planted!
Last edit: 25 Nov 2013 08:18 by Lauris (Lauris).

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